RUSSIAN VINTAGE
What is vintage?
There are a lot of people, who mess up the terms: retro, vintage and antique. So it is the first topic to cover. Here we will speak only about this terms considering fashion and clothings (not music/design/winemaking).
What clothes can we call vintage? Most commonly this term is about things originating from a previous era. There can be debate over whether or not an item is vintage. Some vintage enthusiasts may say something as young as thirteen years old is vintage, whereas others require an item to be at least twenty years old for it to be considered vintage. However there is no legal definition of the term.
Retro (also known as vintage-inspired) refers to new objects that are designed to resemble other.
What clothes can we call vintage? Most commonly this term is about things originating from a previous era. There can be debate over whether or not an item is vintage. Some vintage enthusiasts may say something as young as thirteen years old is vintage, whereas others require an item to be at least twenty years old for it to be considered vintage. However there is no legal definition of the term.
Retro (also known as vintage-inspired) refers to new objects that are designed to resemble other.
Antique simply refers to objects that are considerably older, and there can be debate about that as well. In most areas the legal definition of an antique is an artificial object that is at least a century old.
Many people use these words oftentimes interchangeably, as the difference between the terms is not that critical and important. But if we want to talk about vintage fashion, we have to take the definitions into consideration. So now we can turn to the main topic of this longread — vintage fashion and clothings.
Vintage clothes typically sell at low prices for high end named brands. It has been part of the world since World War I as an idea of reusing clothing because of the textile shortage. Vintage clothing can be found in cities at local boutiques or local charities, or on the internet (e.g. eBay and Etsy). Vintage clothing is also known as retro clothing.
Many people use these words oftentimes interchangeably, as the difference between the terms is not that critical and important. But if we want to talk about vintage fashion, we have to take the definitions into consideration. So now we can turn to the main topic of this longread — vintage fashion and clothings.
Vintage clothes typically sell at low prices for high end named brands. It has been part of the world since World War I as an idea of reusing clothing because of the textile shortage. Vintage clothing can be found in cities at local boutiques or local charities, or on the internet (e.g. eBay and Etsy). Vintage clothing is also known as retro clothing.
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History of vintage in Russia
The trend of vintage clothes came to Russia with a considerable delay, and only the most daring fashion-mongers neatly mixed the 20th-century exclusives with bohemian outfits. The first one who demonstrated their vintage outfit was Natasha Turovnikova and her old costumes. Then Olga Thompson began to appear at social events in dresses from collections of thirty years ago. As they were kind of trendsetters by that time, soon there appeared a demand for a local vintage market among the public.
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The first step towards vintage Moscow were made by Alina Lysova, turning a personal collection of vintage clothing into a Vintage Voyage boutique. Ekaterina Borisova, the owner of the Mix & Match vintage store with selective items, made her debut in 2014 with a small vintage collection on Lambada Market. Today her project is an impressive collection of silk dresses and kimonos from Europe.
Alina Lysova, frame from lookbook Vintage Voyage
Marina Chuikina, the founder of Strogo Vintage project, showed a completely different vintage to Moscow. Marina entered the arena of the vintage market with a minimalistic collection of the 80s, assembled in Stockholm.
When a viewer has an opinion about an image based on their personal thoughts. Personal response depends on the viewer's thoughts and values individually. This might be sometimes in conflict with cultural values.
When a viewer has an opinion about an image based on their personal thoughts. Personal response depends on the viewer's thoughts and values individually. This might be sometimes in conflict with cultural values.
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The first buyers were, of course, their acquaintances, or the same vintage- and fashion-adepts. «New» appeared cautiously and gradually. A significant obstacle for the buyers was the blurred border between the old thing and the vintage. This question remains open for many today. The answer to it is as blurry as this very border. The vintage thing is really different from the thing from the grandmother's chest, if your grandmother is not Lilya Brik or Yves Saint Laurent himself sewed for her. Before coming to the vintage store, an item goes through a series of filters. Firstly, the dealer needs to be attracted by it, for this the item should be of eminent origin or meet current fashion trends. Secondly, the item must be of high quality and in a good condition. Each dealer has his own acceptable scale of former operation. Some do not allow a single stitch, others nod approvingly at a pretty hole. It is also pleasant that over the past couple of years, Russian became demanded and ceased to be associated with a cotton scoop.
Today, vintage fashion has become ubiquitous. More and more cute shops are opening in the most unexpected places in Russia, especially in Moscow. High school students and students are lining up for high-waist Levi's. Mature women are no longer afraid of looking like a «soviet sales-clerks from food-stores». Being the second host for a dress doesn't sound frightening, but even intriguing.
In Russia everything is rapidly approaching so that the vintage becomes a solid «yes»
SHOWCASES
TSUM Vintage Fashion Show
At the Moscow Central Department Store in 2018 there was a vintage fashion show dedicated to the opening on the fifth floor of TSUM Vintage space with the legendary creations of Albert Elbaz for Lanvin, Phoebe File for Celine and other iconic past models from the collections of Balmain, Valentino, Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen. Each item is in a single copy.
MBFW Russia
MBFW Russia is the first Fashion Week in the world to bring together designers from around the world for debut shows. From March 30 to April 3, 2019, the Manege Central Exhibition Hall hosted the shows of graduates of foreign fashion institutes. Young designers came to Russia from Italy, Great Britain, Switzerland, Peru, Latvia, Georgia and Bangladesh. Among them was a young designer who made his collection in a vintage style and from recycled materials.
The young British designer Harriet Eccleston was in Moscow for the first time. She graduated from the University of Northumbria and managed to work with brands such as Palmer // Harding, All Saints and Paul Smith. Her clothes embody high quality, classic fit and a modern approach to tradition. The designer brought the debut collection to Russia, which is inspired by an extremely personal story. The girl parsed photos of the family archive and she was struck by photographs of relatives taken at the beginning of the 20th century.
Several generations ago, the Harriet Eccleston family owned a men's clothing store and had their own atelier. The collection includes designs tailored skillfully from a men's wardrobe. Shirts, trousers and butterflies refer to the classic image of a gentleman. However, thanks to a loose fit on the models, the clothes look cozy. Turquoise and saffron dilute white shirts with gray suit fabric. The collection has an author's print in the form of knitting, which is repeated in the form of volumetric designs, for example, as a back jacket or even the whole canvas from which the sweater and shorts are made.
The young British designer Harriet Eccleston was in Moscow for the first time. She graduated from the University of Northumbria and managed to work with brands such as Palmer // Harding, All Saints and Paul Smith. Her clothes embody high quality, classic fit and a modern approach to tradition. The designer brought the debut collection to Russia, which is inspired by an extremely personal story. The girl parsed photos of the family archive and she was struck by photographs of relatives taken at the beginning of the 20th century.
Several generations ago, the Harriet Eccleston family owned a men's clothing store and had their own atelier. The collection includes designs tailored skillfully from a men's wardrobe. Shirts, trousers and butterflies refer to the classic image of a gentleman. However, thanks to a loose fit on the models, the clothes look cozy. Turquoise and saffron dilute white shirts with gray suit fabric. The collection has an author's print in the form of knitting, which is repeated in the form of volumetric designs, for example, as a back jacket or even the whole canvas from which the sweater and shorts are made.
Vintage inspired fashion encompasses new vintage style clothing mostly from the 1930s to the 1970s. The looks are fun, sophisticated, and flattering to women and men. Get inspired by the fashions of the past and shop for a wardrobe that fits your personality. These brands are all about creating vintage outfits that blend all the retro decades into a style that is as unique as you are.
Remember, these pieces only look like vintage, but they represent how it affected fashion nowadays. Also they are much easier to purchase.
Remember, these pieces only look like vintage, but they represent how it affected fashion nowadays. Also they are much easier to purchase.
Freddies of Pinewood
Freddies ' 50s style jeans are everywhere. Also they make lots of different styles of jeans, overalls and dungarees – all old-fashioned non-stretch denim – as well as tops and knitwear (all for men and women).
Vivien of Holloway
Another homegrown vintage reproduction design powerhouse, Vivien of Holloway, began on a market stall in Kensington in the 1980s and now run their own London garment factory where every stitch of their clothing is made. Mostly known for their classic 1950s halterneck party dress, they make an array of vintage style dresses and separates.
Miss Bamboo
A newcomer on the scene, Miss Bamboo has only recently started designing her own dresses and handbags after selling other repro brands for a while. Her creations are made from pretty, authentic-looking fabrics and her namesake bamboo handbags are based on one of her own, original 1950s tiki box bags.
some more interesting cases
Dita Von Teese on vintage shopping and creating her own vintage inspired collections
This is the classic examples of vintage fashion shows
Christian Dior Fur Fashion Show in London (1969)
Christian Dior Fur Fashion Show in London (1969)
Nina Ricci Versailles Palace Fashion Show (1968)
Current situation with second hands in Moscow
Second-hand shops in Moscow:
«Левша»
Bonappart.Ement
Freak Frak
SomeMoreStore
Raise Vintage
Party of Two
Kings of Denim
Cream Moscow
Total Vintage
Fefela Vintage
«Левша»
Bonappart.Ement
Freak Frak
SomeMoreStore
Raise Vintage
Party of Two
Kings of Denim
Cream Moscow
Total Vintage
Fefela Vintage
Center of vintage fashion and design at Danilovsky market
Vintage Heritage
Second Friend Store
Mix and match vintage
Legacy Vintage Store
Small Reed Shop
California Sale
STROGO vintage
Vintage Denim
NY.Vintage
Vintage Voyage
Vintage Heritage
Second Friend Store
Mix and match vintage
Legacy Vintage Store
Small Reed Shop
California Sale
STROGO vintage
Vintage Denim
NY.Vintage
Vintage Voyage
Столичный Гардероб
Okno
Svalka
Vintage Atelier
Архиватор
Кооператив Сияние Vintage
Ничего подобного
Charity Shop
Отвинтаж
Vertical Store
After Past
Rocko Bohos
Okno
Svalka
Vintage Atelier
Архиватор
Кооператив Сияние Vintage
Ничего подобного
Charity Shop
Отвинтаж
Vertical Store
After Past
Rocko Bohos
Second-hand shops on the map of Moscow
The idea of giving the opportunity to broadcast a second life in culture, we were afraid to buy worn clothes. Since then, much has changed.
The vintage clothing market is gaining momentum in Russia. Every month in 5 new stores and online stores, the main event in Moscow — Vintage Marketplace — takes place in one of the main locations in the city, for example, the National Hotel, Ryabushinsky Bank. On Facebook, the pages of this event marked from 3,000 to 4,000 thousand people.
At the same time, in the center of Moscow there are only about 10 permanent sites, which are associated with the high cost of rent and the first stage, when organizations sell clothes and these clothes, do not have sufficient resources to promote, expand the range, etc. In their collection collect about 20 things every month. There are also Second-hand stores in Moscow, the most famous chain, the Metropolitan Wardrobe, has 16 stores in Moscow.
The «Moscow wardrobe» is located in special places in Moscow and Moscow Region, and satisfactory quality data is stored in the audience, but crazy things are almost impossible to find there.
At the same time, in the center of Moscow there are only about 10 permanent sites, which are associated with the high cost of rent and the first stage, when organizations sell clothes and these clothes, do not have sufficient resources to promote, expand the range, etc. In their collection collect about 20 things every month. There are also Second-hand stores in Moscow, the most famous chain, the Metropolitan Wardrobe, has 16 stores in Moscow.
The «Moscow wardrobe» is located in special places in Moscow and Moscow Region, and satisfactory quality data is stored in the audience, but crazy things are almost impossible to find there.
Not so long ago, a second-hand window was opened. «OKNO» (The Window) is a Fix-Price in the world of second-hand items: clothes in it are divided into groups of 500, 777, 999 and 1500 rubles. Labeled items are mixed with nouns, male and female.
The project «SVALKA» for a nominal fee takes Muscovites unnecessary clothes, shoes, furniture and other items. Things are divided into two streams: 95% leaves for the warehouse store on the opening day in Izmailovo, where goods are sold at bargain prices. Another 5% - the best of the best - goes to the Danilovsky market in the Center for Vintage Fashion and Design, where the project has a Svalka Select corner. The founders call the first point "punk-second-hand", because there they get straightforward things, useful in everyday life, but without historical value. The second point is completely devoted to curious vintage.
Package promotions take place regularly: you can buy a small package for 500 rubles, an average for 1000 and a huge for 3000 and put anything you want into them. In one package, a whole wardrobe risks fitting.
Package promotions take place regularly: you can buy a small package for 500 rubles, an average for 1000 and a huge for 3000 and put anything you want into them. In one package, a whole wardrobe risks fitting.
At «Vintage Heritage» — a motley and generally democratic selection of European vintage vintages for women. Laura Ashley dresses tightly wrapped in a waist, embroidered no-name caftans, and YSL broad-shouldered jackets are also included in the purchase. Of much greater interest are women's accessories: sonorous metal belts, large earrings, bracelets on unusual clasps, which now do not.
«Vintage Heritage» is one of those rare stores that presents bold style-forming items like Christian Dior colored feather trousers.
«Vintage Heritage» is one of those rare stores that presents bold style-forming items like Christian Dior colored feather trousers.
Autors
Bordukova Viktoria,
Bagina Maria,
Mashonskaya Alyona,
Ogoleva Anstasia,
Melnikova Evgenia
Bordukova Viktoria,
Bagina Maria,
Mashonskaya Alyona,
Ogoleva Anstasia,
Melnikova Evgenia
